Istanbul is the only city in the world sprawling across two continents, linking Europe and Asia. To the east of the Bosphorus Strait lies the city’s Asian side and to the west the European side, which draws most visitors for its Sultanahmet neighborhood where the majority of Istanbul’s historic landmarks can be found. The city is massive though, with its population reaching over 15 million people, so traffic can be crazy. Because of its unique location, it is seen as a bridge between the east and west with incredible culture, history, amazing food, beautiful architecture and sights. It is one of the most enthralling cities we have ever visited!
STAY: Witt Istanbul Suites (a wonderful and stylish hotel in Cihangir, with incredibly spacious rooms, a living area and kitchenette, and sweeping views of Istanbul. It was the perfect base for our stay)
TO SEE/DO:
Sultanahmet District: a visit to Istanbul is incomplete without exploring the Old City, which gives you a glimpse into the heart of Istanbul’s history and some of its most magnificent architecture – all located within walking distance of the Sultanahmet Square. The majestic Hagia Sophia dominates the skyline of Sultanahmet, and is easily recognisable from its vast dome, colourful marble columns, Islamic art and Christian mosaics. Other must-sees include the Ottoman-era Topkapi Palace, a former residence of the Sultans, that was transformed into a museum; the Blue Mosque, renowned for its blue tiles and six minarets; and the Basilica Cistern, which is the largest surviving underground Byzantine cistern in Istanbul. The Süleymanye Mosque complex is also worth a visit, but a bit farther away in another district. For eating or shopping don’t miss the Grand Bazaar (one of the world’s biggest open-air commercial centers) and Egyptian Spice Bazaar. You can spend a whole day just in the Grand Bazaar!
Beyoglu District: explore Karakoy which was formerly one of the city’s most important ports, but left to deteriorate until it started to become a trendy area. Today, its maze-like streets offer a glimpse of the city’s history. You will find churches and synagogues blending seamlessly into the newer parts of Karakoy. Tophane is a little area that feels more like a village. It lies in the zone between Galata Tower in the Karakoy quarter and the now trendy & bohemian Cihangir neighborhood. Tophane is a very traditional and somewhat conservative Turkish neighborhood. Galata is most clearly identified by the historic Galata Tower, which overlooks the neighborhood’s old cobblestoned streets. The main street and others around the tower are full of tiny and interesting shops and cafés, but does feel pretty touristy.
Balat District: is one of the oldest districts and the best-hidden gems of Istanbul. Colorful, quiet sloping & narrow streets with old beautiful houses. It was once known as the Jewish quarter of the city.
OUR ITINERARY:
DAY 1:
With a guide we got to explore the Sultanahmet District and see all the mosques and other sites along the way such as the remains of the Roman Hippodrome.
DAY 2: Culinary Backstreets Bazaar Quarter Food Tour (5.5hrs)
This is an absolute MUST and our guide Gonca was a wealth of knowledge. Not just about food, but also about history, culture, traditions, etc. We fell in love with her!
Bazaar Quarter - a historic center of small craftsmen who still carry on their tradition in the atmospheric caravanserais - Ottoman-era trading posts — that dot this area. With all of the shopping, people rarely open their eyes to the culinary treasures of this area, which are well-protected by the merchants and craftsmen who dine here everyday. You will typically not eat at places that you would find on your own, but in more tucked away spots.
We started with a full breakfast (that is a very big thing in Turkey - my kinda of people :-), then freshly baked pide, a perfect kebab, a spread of seasonal vegetarian mezes and so much more. We had tea and Turkish coffee in out-of-the-way places, and a vast array of sweets. It’s more food than you can possibly imagine eating and needless to say that you will not be able to eat dinner.
DAY 3: Bosphorus Villages
Also with a guide we took a taxi to Besiktas to visit the fish market and stroll through this lively and colorfull neighbourhood. Then we hopped on a ferry to Üsküdar on the Asian side. This is a much more traditional & conservative area, and you will feel like you are in an Islamic country, which is not the case in so many other parts of Istanbul. We took a taxi to Kuzguncuk which is a very quaint neighborhood and becoming a trendy weekend spot. We really liked this area, very walkable and full of cafes and shops! We finished our tour in Cengelkoy before taking the ferry back to the European side of the Bosphorus.
DAY 4: Culinary Backstreets Two Markets, Two Continents Food Tour (5.5hrs)
Gonca was our guide again so we were ready for her high energy and love for Turkey.
This tour started in the Karakoy neighborhood before moving over to the Asian side’s Kadıkoy. The historic Perşembe Pazarı of Karakoy might look like a place to buy springs, hardware and paint supplies, but in the midst of all that we had a seasonal breakfast experience, followed by a stroll and traditional tea in a place you would never discover on your own. Then we hopped on a boat to Kadıköy and ate our way through that neighborhood’s market, which holds the highest concentration of traditional food shops and eateries in the city. We had one of the best cups of Turkish coffee in town before sampling regional specialties and treats in an infectious neighborhood vibe.
DAY 5: Today, we just walked around our neighborhood, Cihangir, and explored all the narrow streets, many great street cafes and wonderful clothes and food boutiques. We would have loved to experience a Hammam, but due to Covid restrictions, they were all closed.
