Atacama Desert - 2012

ITINERARY

Santiago flight to Calama > drive to San Pedro de Atacama [3] > back to Calama/Santiago

STAY Awasi Atacama [rustic-chic, all-inclusive hotel in San Pedro de Atacama. Meals, drinks, airport transfers and guided tours are included. Not a cheap place, but the guide we got assigned to was incredible and made our trip with fantastic excursions. The food was also memorable with local and very unique ingredients]

EXCURSIONS these are our favorites:

VALLE DE LA LUNA (VALLEY OF THE MOON) with a magical landscape that as the name says resembles the moon. We hiked into the Kari canyon and went into caves, saw salt formations that look like snow and so much more.

CEJAR POND is actually a set of 3 ponds located in the middle of the Salt Flat and in one of them we could bathe. Given its high salt concentration, you float on the water and cannot sink, a phenomenon similar to the Dead Sea (Israel). There are beautiful birds that live in the Salt Flat and also some great views of the surrounding mountain ranges. We biked there and that was a great way to experience that environment.

MACHUCA is a small town at pretty high altitude in the Altiplano, inhabited by only a few Atacamenian families. The drive there is incredible with yellow hills of tall vegetation that cover wetlands where you see llamas graze in the company of vicunas and different species of wild birds, ducks and flamingos. Always with the Andes mountain range as a backdrop. The colors will blow your mind. On the way back from Machuca we stopped at a valley called Guatin, which means “Valley of the cacti.” We took a short walk along the bank of the Vilama River and a profusion of cacti.

SALAR DE PUJSA (PUJSA SALT FLAT) is almost at the border with Bolivia where the Flamencos National Reserve is located. The landscape is otherwordly with flamingos living in a colorful sulfuric lake & vicunas running around. It’s hard to describe this landscape, you have to experience it!

Greece - 2011

A group of us went to Greece for a very special occasion: Jen & Dave Garlasco’s wedding. It was such a great trip!

CORFU

This was our first stop- an island off Greece’s northwest coast in the Ionian Sea.  Considered one of the greenest islands in Greece.

STAY Cavalieri Hotel [old hotel at an ideal location by the water & old town; the highlight is its rooftop terrace with uninterrupted views of Corfu Town and the fortress]

SEE/DO Boat Hire [we rented scooters and drove around the island. As part of our drive, we stopped at a beach in the northeast part of the island - don’t recall which one exactly – and rented a small powerboat to explore the island’s more remote beaches & coves. Note that boats of up to 30HP can be rented at most beaches, and no special license is needed. Corfu’s waters are very calm. This is highly recommended!] Walk around Old Town [the narrow & winding streets of Corfu's Old Town are filled with food shops, cafes, craft workshops as well as the kind of souvenir shops you find anywhere]

PAXOS

Paxos has no airport, so we took a ferryboat there, and that has protected it from the strain of modern tourism. Paxos is an island with endless olive groves and its eastern coastline is gentle compared to the west coast, which is pretty bold and abrupt. The capital is Gaios, a picturesque village built around a port. On the Northern side is the village of Lakka and on the east side the very charming village of Longos or Loggos, and we stayed nearby. I loved the very relaxing pace of this friendly island.

STAY Glyfada Beach Villas [this is where Jen & Dave’s wedding took place so we all got to spend quite a few very relaxing days at this rustic but very comfortable hotel. There was a narrow trail leading downhill to the village of Loggos, where we would usually go for dinner]

EAT Erimitis Bar & Restaurant [this is a must for the spectacular views; the food is good but that’s not the reason to go to this place] Vassilis Taverna [at the small village of Loggos, by the sea front. Very good food and great ambiance]

SEE/DO Rent a car or scooter and drive around the island; Day trip to Anti-Paxos [we all took a boat tour to Anti-Paxos and found the whitest beach I have ever seen with  stunning turquoise blue waters]

Eastern Europe - 2011

ITINERARY

Budapest > Bratislava > Vienna > Cesky Krumlov > Prague

A group of friends - Robin & Niko, Rick, my sister Gabi, Michael & I, also known as Hi-Five Crew - organized a trip to Eastern Europe with stops in Budapest, Vienna and Prague. We got to explore these wonderful cities and ride our bikes on the countryside surrounding these cities. 

BUDAPEST

is a vibrant city bisected by the River Danube which separates hilly Buda from level Pest. The contrast of the incredible building fabric that lost its allure behind the Iron Curtain years, with that same fabric that is coming back to life is fascinating to me. Budapest has an edge to it but is at the same time sophisticated, and culturally very rich. This was by far my favorite city on this trip.

STAY Palazzo Zichy [in a restored 19th-century mansion at a great location at the historic Palace District in Budapest’s centre. Make sure to walk around this beautiful neighborhood of historic buildings and stunning aristocratic palaces at every turn]

EAT Gerbeaud Café [one of the city’s oldest cafés, famous for its cakes and pastries. Can be pretty touristy and crowded but worth a peak] Szimpla [a “ruin” pub in a dilapidated building that has become quite famous in Budapest – stop by for a drink] Great Market Hall [this was not open during our visit, but it looks like a great place to check out if you’re into food markets like I am] Culinaris [has a lunch counter with a separate specialty-foods shop near the neo-Gothic parliament building]

TO DO/SEE Dohány utca Synagogue [Europe’s largest synagogue with a Moorish architecture. You will find the Jewish Museum next door and the Holocaust memorial courtyard to the rear] Rudas Thermal Bath [at the foot of the scenic Gellert Hill on the Buda side, this Turkish bath was built during the 16th century and has its main swimming pool under an incredible dome. It also has a hamam -Turkish sauna. We went on a late Friday night, after midnight, when they opened the bath for men & women] Alexandra Bookstore [great bookstore close to the Opera with a gorgeous cafe upstairs] Beyond Budapest [provides unique walking tours. In the past few years we have started taking walking or biking tours of new cities, and have not regretted it once! Wish we had done it in Budapest] Buda Castle Hill [just take your time walking around the cobblestone streets of Castle Hill; the views of the city from there are incredible] City Park [rent a bike and go around this great park in the centre of the city. I loved the unexpected sculptures in the lake] Opera House [gorgeous neo-renaissance building, considered to be amongst the best opera houses in the world in terms of its acoustics. We would have gone to a show there if there was one scheduled during our visit. Just for the experience of being in such incredible venue!] Night River Cruise [even though this is a pretty touristy thing to do, it was actually beautiful to see the city from the river all illuminated at night. The Parliament building in particular was spectacular]

VIENNA

very imposing classic city with grand buildings, monuments and parks. A beautiful city but it lacked a bit of warmth. 

STAY We stayed at an “airbnb-like” private home of Mrs. Edith. A grand apartment but with every inch of the floor or walls covered with an ornament, rug, or some form of tapestry. She would make us breakfast every morning on her 1980’s lycra outfit. I will not recommend her place though because you will have an allergy attack there like we did! 
Hotel Daniel [more modern boutique hotel – even though I did not stay there, it seems to be more my style – has a hammock in the room!]

SEE/TO DO We only had one day to see Vienna so we rented city bikes and rode around, mostly the city center area. Very easy (flat) and safe city for cycling. Some of the highlights were Schonbrunn Palace [majestic former imperial summer residence; we did not go inside but strolled around the gardens] Schwarzenbergplatz Square [cycle through this square; I loved the very large modern sculpture there] MUMOK [museum of modern art in the Museum District in Vienna’s center – even if you don’t have the time to go inside, stroll by its courtyard ] Kärntner Strasse [pedestrian-only shopping street with a diverse mix of historic buildings; walk around the surrounding streets as well] Spanish Riding School [horse show in traditional Renaissance style – an institution in Vienna. We did not get to see the show but we did visit the stables]
We happened to be there while the Music Film Festival at City Hall Square was taking place and we ended up there 2 nights in a row for the great traditional food & beer while watching a music or film program on a giant open-air screen.

PRAGUE

is a beautiful capital city with cobbled lanes and well-preserved architecture. It is unfortunately a bit more touristic than we expected with a lot of souvenir shops & terrible restaurants with laminated menus. But if you can see pass the veil of touristic traps, you will find a very charming and picturesque city. 

EAT Klub Architektu [great food in a cozy cellar-like atmosphere] There are tons of great beer halls or pubs in Prague, but this is the one we got to check out - U Medvidku [a roomy & traditional Czech beer hall with simple tables, not particularly charming but fun atmosphere. For a more contemporary beer hall with innovative beers try Pivovarský Klub]

STAY We stayed at an apartment in a very convenient area but not a particularly good spot. The shower leaked into the bathroom and the mattresses were so soft we had to sleep on the box spring. Needless to say, don’t stay at the Pricna Apartments. If I were to go back, I would probably be looking at the Boho Prague Hotel or Augustine. 

SEE/DO Walking Tour [we did a free walking tour that started at Wenceslas Square and we got to see: Old Town Square - Astronomical Clock - Charles University – Mozart Theater - Old Jewish District - Old New Synagogue - Old Jewish Cementer. Then we crossed the famous Charles Bridge – major tourist trap - and visited the Prague Castle and Castle District. It was a great way to see Prague specially if you don’t have many days there and learn more about its rich history] Petrin Hill [hike up Petrin Hill, for a panoramic view of Prague. If you can climb to the top of the needle - a miniature Eiffel Tower – the reward is even greater] Nový Svět [a part of Prague that provides a glimpse of how the city used to be - quiet, quaint, and beautiful, before the crowds of tourists became a staple].

On the way to Prague we got to spend the day at Cesky Krumlov, a very charming medieval town, worth the stop! The drive there was also quite beautiful.

The last 12 pictures are there. 

Salvador & Trancoso - 2010

SALVADOR

this is a great place to start your trip & get a taste of Bahia. This is a place full of history, tradition & color. The old heart of Salvador is the Pelourinho - a UNESCO heritage site with cobblestone streets lined up with very colorful colonial-era buildings. and probably where you will spend most of your time wandering around. 

STAY Pestana Convento do Carmo [in Pelourinho this 16th-century Carmelite convent was converted to a hotel with a nice mix of traditional colonial style and modern comforts] Casa do Amarelindo or The Studio do Carmo Boutique Hotel [both 18th/19th century colonial mansions in Pelourinho]

EAT/DRINK O Cravinho [traditional spot for a cold beer, artisanal cachaças and typical appetizers; behind the restaurant is a courtyard with live music most nights of the week] Cafelier [great spot for a drink or just coffee and coconut water; also good sweets & snacks; great view over the Salvador harbor from the back terrace] Dona Mariquita [very small & simple restaurant serving tasty & authentic food] Maria Mata Mouro [good spot for moquecas or bobós]

You need to try the following typical dishes: acarajé [deep fried dough made from mashed beans which the skins have been removed; it is fried in dendé oil which is derived from a nut found on the dendé palm and it has a very strong and unique flavor; acarajé is usually eaten with small sundries shrimp or hot pepper sauce] vatapá [a paste made from sundries shrimp, peanuts, cashews, coconut milk and dendé - you can eat vatapá with acarajé] bobó or moqueca [stews, typically seafood, made with coconut milk and dendé; bobó is thickened with mashed aipim (manioc) and moqueca is not]

TO DO Sao Joaquin market [very authentic, although a little messy and pretty shocking at times - animals slaughtered as religious offerings. It's been there forever, and will give you a nice idea of what the city was like around the turn of the century. Hasn't changed much since then] Ribeira [eat lunch, moqueca, which is a traditional seafood stew in Ribeira, a working-class part of town on the water. Off the tourist track]  Teatro Miguel Santa [folkloric performance]  Visit a Capoeira Studio [dance-like art developed by African slaves as a form of resistance, always accompanied by the sound of a berimbau - single-string percussion instrument. It does not get more Brazilian than this! Associaçao de Capoeira do Mestre Bimba is one you can look for; also check-out Forte Santo Antônio Além do Carmo which is a former fort and prison but now a dedicated space for capoeira] Olodum Rehearsals [ask around if there are any rehearsals scheduled for this afro-group that plays incredible drums during the carnival season. They usually have rehearsals on the streets of Pelourinho. You can also look up Ara Ketu, Filhos de Gandhy or Ilê Aiyê - these are also afro-blocs] Solar do Unhao - MAM [former sugar mill with a Bahia restaurant & modern art museum. It does often have live music shows and is a great spot to watch the sunset] Beach [not the most amazing beaches, in my opinion, but if you are craving some beach time, you can check out Porto da Barra, Farol da Barra, Flamengo or Itapoan]

TRANCOSO

is possibly my favorite beach town in Brasil. Located outside of Porto Seguro, where you fly to, this place is wonderfully tranquil and magical. Its heart and soul is the 'Quadrado', the square. A rectangular patch of grass lined on both sides by colorful adobe houses dating back some 500 years, and punctuated at its far end by an all white small church. It could not be more picturesque. It is the gathering place for everyone in town: young, old, rich, poor, locals and tourists alike. The golden sand beaches are at the base of the cliff behind the church and walkable from the square. 

STAY Capim Santo [this is where we stayed; great location at the Quadrado; sweet cottages and great breakfast] Uxua [if you can afford, this place is fantastic; each "casa" is uniquely designed by the creative director of Diesel clothing brand, but Bahian in style and handmade by local craftsmen & materials. Also located at the Quadrado] Calá & Divino Hotel Fazenda [if you want to spend a few nights at Praia do Espelho - more on that below]

EAT there are plenty of nice places to eat at, but unfortunately I did not write down the names and it has been a while. 

TO DO Praia do Espelho [about 30 minutes from Trancoso. Even more remote, this beach is another little slice of paradise. We biked there through farms, rivers and jungle (Porto Mondo provided us with guides and bicycles and they were great). It is a must to have lunch at Silvinha's restaurant. You have to book ahead of time since it sits a very small group of people and she will cook the most amazing meal with influence from Bahia, India, Thailand. And the setting is unbeatable. After lunch we got shuttled back to Trancoso. Be prepared road since it's the bumpiest road you will ever be on, no exaggeration] Beach Time [just hang out at the beach if possible at Uxua's beach club. Comfy beds right on the sand, good acai bowls, salads, fried yucca and caipirinhas]

Israel - 2009

ITINERARY

Tel Aviv > Dead Sea/Masada/Negev Desert > Jerusalem > Tel Aviv > Day Trip: Caesarea/Akko/Haifa > Tel Aviv

This trip to Israel was planned to attend the wedding of one of my dearest friend Merav and her awesome, now husband, Lloyd. Around 75 people from the US flew to Israel for the wedding including my sister Gabi and my father Ideal. It was a whole week of celebrations in Tel Aviv but we got to get away for a few days to explore Israel a bit. Merav's family is originally from Yemen, so the first wedding ceremony was a traditional Henna Ceremony and then they had a more typical wedding a few days later - if you can call 400 guests a typical wedding! It was an incredible cultural experience, amazing food, great people. Merav's large family went out of their way to make us all feel at home. 

TEL AVIV

STAY The Neve Tzedek Hotel [one-of-a-king boutique hotel]

EAT Suzanna [Mediterranean restaurant in Neve Tzedek] Dallal [converted 19th century house with courtyards and open air bar – super charming space] Abu Hassan [tiny place serving hummus only]

SEE/TO DO Neve Tzedek [Tel Aviv’s oldest neighborhood, now very fashionable with boutiques, cafes, restaurants and a nighttime party atmosphere] Carmel Market – Shuk H’carmel [colorful middle eastern market] Yemenite Quarter [located just behind the Carmel Market this neighborhood might appear unkempt and dirty still wander through its narrow grid streets, lined with crumbling houses and you will be pleasantly surprised how trendy it is] Old Jaffa or Yafo [at the end of Tel Aviv beach sits this fascinating area of old stone streets, beautiful views and so much history] Jaffa Flea Market [bargaining encouraged!] The Beaches [soft white sand & translucent warm water – the perfect mix for a great beach experience] Rothschild Boulevard [a beautiful tree-lined street with beautiful properties and boutique hotels]

DAY TRIP – North of Tel Aviv – Caesarea [we visited the National Park beside the sea, with dramatic ruins and ancient buildings] Akko or Acre [historic medieval walled port city – stroll around town] Haifa [beautiful city situated on a hill overlooking a bay; it’s most famous landmark is the Baha’i Gardens – not to be missed]

JERUSALEM

STAY Christ Church Guest House [at Jaffa gate in the Old City; I’m not a religious person at all, but we were traveling on a budget and this was a very pleasant and clean place to stay at. Just note that you will be woken up in the middle of the night with the calls for prayer from nearby mosques; startling at first] The American Colony [beautiful hotel; would have stayed there if we could]

SEE/TO DO Old City [still enclosed within grand walls and divided into 4 quarters: Muslim, Christian, Armenian & Jewish quarters. Jaffa gate is the main gate into the old city. Experience this area day & night] Old City Bazaar [maze of alleys in the old city full of smells & colors] Yemin Moshe [very picturesque hillside neighborhood; it’s a must to spend time walking around its narrow streets & alleys] Mea Sharim [populated by ultra-orthodox Jews of Eastern Europe origin. It is another world that will take you back in time. Women should dress really conservatively and avoid taking pictures] Yad Vashem Memorial and Holocaust Museum [a must see] Dome of the Rock – Temple Mount Haram Es Sharif [one of the most historic sites in the world]  to approach the wall] The Western Wall [the holiest site for Jewish people; men must wear a hat and women shawls in order to approach the wall] Machane Yehuda [old market quarter – eat freshly baked burekas, nuts, halva, etc]

DEAD SEA/MASADA/NEGEV DESERT

STAY Ein Gedi Kibbutz [located in a botanical garden just 5 minutes from the Dead Sea]

SEE/TO DO Masada [dramatic ancient site perched high above the Dead Sea; we hiked up but make sure to leave early because it gets really hot; you can hike or take a tram back down] Negev Desert [we toured the desert with Karkom Jeep Tour and got to see Mount Sdom, the big crater, zin valley springs near Sde-Boker, caves – it was a great way to see this area] Dead Sea [soak, or better float in the sea but make sure never to put your head or face in the water; a very unique experience]