Uganda | Tanzania | Mozambique - 2021

Here is a trip that got postponed from 2020 due to Covid 19 and that until a couple of months prior was still up in the air if it would happen in 2021, but it did, and I’m so glad. Even though it was a harder time to travel with constant Covid tests, masks and Health Forms, we had hotels to ourselves, a lot less people on game viewings and the wildlife was incredible thanks to less noise, less pollution and less disruptions overall. My husband and I got to share this trip with our friend MP.

ITINERARY

{UGANDA} Entebbe [1] > Kyaninga Lodge in Fort Portal [3] > Kyambura Gorge Lodge at Queen Elizabeth National Park [2] > Gorilla Forest Camp in Bwindi National Park [3] {TANZANIA} Legendary Lodge in Arusha [1] > Gibb’s Farm in Ngororo Conservation Area [2] Namiri Plains Camp in the Serengeti [2] Dunia Camp in the Serengeti [2] {MOZAMBIQUE} Azure Benquerra [4]

FLIGHTS

Istanbul > Entebbe > Bwindi > Entebbe > Dar es Salaam > Arusha > Lake Manyara > Serengeti > Kilimanjaro > Entebbe > Johannesburg > Vilankulos > Benguerra (helicopter) > Vilankulos (helicopter) >Johannesburg > Addis Ababa > Athens

15 flights total - 4 of them in small bush planes and 2 in a helicopter. That's a lot of take-offs and landings!

UGANDA

Uganda came into our radar at first because we wanted to see mountain gorillas. That was goal number 1 on this trip. But we got to appreciate this country for so much more. It is a very mountainous lush & green country, with beautiful tea farms and banana trees everywhere. Every household grows their own banana trees for their own consumption since this is a staple in their diet. The Ugandans are lovely people, always with big smiles on their faces, and the kids are as adorable as it gets. Wildlife is abundant and diverse.

DAY 1 - Drive to Kibale Forest National Park

This morning our lovely guide Robert picked us up at our hotel in Entebbe and we departed on a scenic drive to Fort Portal near Kibale Forest National Park, which takes about 7 hours on a mix of paved and dirt roads. The park boasts the largest concentration of chimpanzees in Africa.

STAY: Kyaninga Lodge which is set against a stunning backdrop of Lake Kyaninga and the Mountains of the Moon beyond. The lodge’s cottages & main facilities are all built on wooden platforms along a mountain ridge. Be prepared to climb a LOT of stairs. This was our favorite lodge in Uganda, and even though it took about 1.5hrs to get to Kibale Forest, I would stay here again in a heartbeat.

DAYS 2 & 3 - In both mornings we went tracking for chimpanzees in the Kibale Forest National Park, which hosts a population of more than 1,000 chimpanzees. Since 1991, one 80-strong community has been habituated in Kanyanchu, allowing us to visit them pretty up close. They are as fun as you would expect them to be! One of these afternoons we hiked around Lake Kyaninga from the Lodge and it was stunning.

DAY 4 - This morning we set out on another scenic drive to Queen Elizabeth National Park.

STAY: Kyambura Gorge Lodge which is set on the Eastern edge of Queen Elizabeth National Park with beautiful views of the park. It was built using environmentally friendly local materials by a community workshop.

The game viewing at Queen Elizabeth National Park is quite good, with Cape Buffalos, Warthogs, Elephants, Horned Ugandan Kobs, Topis, Waterbucks, Lions, Hippos and many birds, among them the African Fish Eagle, Pelicans, Kingfisher and Grey Crowned Crane. But one big difference between this game drive in a National Park versus the ones we did on our previous trip to Namibia and Botswana in private reserves, is that there were a lot more cars approaching a viewing, and you had to stay on the main roads and could not get off-road to get closer to an animal. We had gotten spoiled so this was a bit disappointing. We also had to drive for about 1hr on a major road that crosses the park, before getting off to smaller dirt roads. In Namibia and Botswana, we were in a safari from the minute we left the lodge.

DAY 5 - Today we got to take a private boat cruise on the Kazinga Channel, filled with hippos, buffalos, elephants and tons of birds. This was the highlight of Queen Elizabeth National Park! Since we were on a boat, we could get quite close to a large number of elephants bathing in the channel and hanging out side-by-side with hippos and buffalos. It was incredible!

DAY 6 - We departed on another scenic 4-5hr drive to Bwindi in our search for mountain gorillas. It was quite a drive with patches of dirt roads that give you quite the “African massage” as they like to say. We stop along the way to see if we found the tree-climbing lions, but we were not lucky.

Uganda has the highest population of mountain gorillas in the world and they can’t be found anywhere else on earth but in the Virunga Mountains shared by Uganda, Rwanda, and the Democratic Republic of Congo. These gorillas inhabit two of Uganda’s national parks: Mgahinga National Park and Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park.

STAY: Gorilla Forest Camp is designed with tents that sit on raised wooden platforms that blend into the side of a forested mountain. Very comfortable and relaxing with a glamping vibe.

DAYS 7 & 8: Both days were dedicated to gorilla tracking and were really exciting and challenging. The Bwindi mountain gorillas are part of a worldwide population of about 1060. The latest count showed 459 gorillas in Bwindi and 604 in the other forests, with a total of 50 families. 21 of these families have been habituated, meaning they tolerate humans for about 1-hr a day, and can be visited. We got to visit the Mubare Group (9 gorillas total: one silverback, 4 females & 4 infants) and the Habinyanja Group (12 gorillas total: 1 silverback, 2 black backs + females and young ones). Trackers leave early in the morning to locate the different groups, and then once you are assigned your group, you get to start your trek with a guide, a ranger and porters who can help you up and down very steep hills. The first trek, even though it was steep, it was on a relatively well marked trail (about 5hrs RT). The moment we encountered the gorillas so close by was pure magic and one of those unforgettable moments in life! The infants are so curious, and approached us with no fear. Adorable does not even start to describe them! The silverback was comfortable in our presence, as were the females, and they just cared to eat. The second trek was extremely steep through the forest with no marked trails. A much harder hike and viewing (also about 5hrs RT). The silverback and black backs did not want to be in our presence and kept hiding. A pregnant female, however, was very comfortable and posed the entire time with her young sons. The beauty of booking two days of gorilla trekking is that we got to experience different families at different settings.

DAY 9: This was a long day of travel. We departed early for a 3hr drive to an airstrip and from there flew to Entebbe, then on our way to Tanzania.

TANZANIA

DAY 10: We took a charter flight from Arusha to Lake Manyara and then on a 1-hr drive to Gibb’s Farm. This was an incredible spot, and another highlight of our trip. We had a Masai Mara take us around the farm this afternoon and teach us about all the medicinal plants that are heavily used in their diets, and so much more.

STAY: Gibb's Farm is an oasis of green beauty in the midst of the often parched and dusty landscape of the outer slopes of the Ngorongoro Crater. German settlers built the old colonial farmhouse at Gibb’s Farm in the early part of the twentieth century and to this day, it still has the character of a well-kept private home. Today you set out on a guided Crater Rim Walk.you find expansive views of the surrounding farmland. At your back are the forested slopes teeming with wildlife, including elephant and leopard.

DAY 11: Today we set on a guided tour through the forest to the Ngorogoro Crater Rim and we were not prepared for what we encountered. Eight hours of hiking through thick, wet and misty forest, not always with a marked trail or very maintained pathway. Our guide had a machete and worked for hours opening a path for us, while we were on high alert for elephants who roam this forest. We finally arrived all wet and muddy to the rim of the Crater and it was completely foggy and we could not see anything 😊 Oh well! That’s just part of being in nature, you can control the outcome!

DAY 12: This is another travel day with a charter flight to the Serengeti. Daniel, our lovely guide for the next 6 days met us at the strip and was game drive all the way to our next lodge.

STAY: Namiri Plains Camp is in the eastern corner of the Serengeti, where the southern short grass plains meet acacia woodland. For 20 years, the grasslands of the Eastern Serengeti were closed to tourists to allow the cheetah population to replenish itself and in 2014, the region reopened and today is big-cat territory, where cheetah roam the area in pursuit of prey, and lion and leopard hunt undisturbed. Each room is in a very architecturally gorgeous & luxurious tent, with a bath tub on a terrace overlooking the savannah.

DAY 13: This morning we rose early to scout for game from our vehicle, joining wildlife in their prime hunting hours. After a siesta during the hottest time of day, we ventured out again as animals take their first stretches in preparation for their evening meal. We had incredible sightings but the highlight for me was a mother cheetah with three 1-month old babies who we had to ourselves for at least 1-hr. that was worth going all the way to Tanzania!

DAY 14: We had an unexpected surprise this morning that made us get up at 4am and drive for almost 2hrs in the dark so we could watch the sunrise over the Serengeti in a hot air balloon. WOW, what a treat!! From there our game drive took us to Dunia Camp, our next lodge.

STAY: Dunia Camp has an exceptional location in a secluded valley of the Serengeti. It has a much more green and lush surrounding than Namiri Plains Camp and it felt like we were in a different park. The rooms are in tents that look more like you would expect from a glamping tent, but still very comfortable. We slept or better tried to sleep, listening to lions roar outside as if they were just outside the canvas wall of our tent.

DAY 15: Another typical day on a safari trip: wake up super early and leave on a game drive. Not 30 minutes into a very peaceful drive, without seeing another car, Michael spotted a rhino at a distance and our guide immediatley turned off the car. We stayed very quiet as he approched us for about 10 minutes without seeing us since rhinos don’t have good eye sight. These are very elusive animals who take off the minute they sense anybody approching and so are very difficult to see. That is all to say that 10 minutes observing him, felt like an eternity and we were incredibly lukcy. Our guide had not seen one in about 2 years and he was literally emotional. We could have turned around and gone back to the lodge since it does not get better than this, but we continued on to another spectacular day full of lions, giraffes, elephants, wildebeests & zebras (massive numbers of those as part of the tail end of the Great Migration), not to mention that vast array of beautiful birds.

DAY 16: After breakfast at camp we departed on a flight to Kilimanjaro, from there to Entebbe, and onward to Johannesburg, where we had to spend the night before flying to Mozambique the next morning This was an extremely long travel day, but required in order to get from one remote location to another. But now all I can recall are the magnificent places I visited and days like this just dissipate away.

STAY: Intercontinental Hotel at the Johannesburg Airport was unexpectatedly a very nice spot for a layover.

MOZAMBIQUE

DAY 17: A short flight from Johannesburg took us to Vilankulos, and as we got there a helicopter whisked us away on a short flight over paradise to the island of Benguerra, our home for the next 4 nights.

STAY: Azura Benguerra, with just 20 villas nestled along one of the last undiscovered stretches of beach in the world, offered us pure relaxation!

DAY 18, 19 & 20: Our days comprised of breakfast, lunch and dinner on the sand of the beach, right by the water & illuminated by candles; walks on almost deserted beaches except for locals fishing, which is one of the only activities besides tourism that employs the population of this island; boat trips to see other islands and go snorkeling on one of the richests reefs I have ever seen; massages & sundowner coacktails. Way to end another fantastic adventure in Africa! It’s impossible not to fall in love with this continent.

Pacific Northwest Road Trip - 2020

After months of being home due to Covid, my husband and decided to take a break from Zoom and go on a road trip. We had time set aside to be in Norway in September, but since that was no longer happening, we took that time to drive up the coast of Oregon and Washington, all the way to the San Juan Islands. And then drive down inland. Covid was going to limit our experience and we were prepared for that. What we were not prepared for were the wildfires that hit Oregon and Washington during our trip. And mind you that we had been living in California with wildfires for over a month and could not wait to get away and breathe some fresh air!! Covid & wildfires, a perfect storm, but we were still able to have a good time.

This is our itinerary:

DAY 1:

Leave San Francisco and drive to Gold Beach, OR. About 8hrs drive. Take a small detour along the way to drive along the Avenue of the Giants. It’s a scenic highway parallel to Hwy 101, that runs through Humboldt Redwood State Park, which has the largest remaining stand of virgin redwoods in the world. It runs from exit 645 to exit 672 and takes about 25 minutes without stops. But there are plenty of stops along way where you can walk into redwood groves and admire up close this incredibly majestic trees. Note that Hwy 101 gets really beautiful after Eureka all the way to Gold Beach. 

STAY TuTuTun Lodge [rustic chic lodge at the edge of the Rogue River, a really beautiful setting] 

EAT TuTuTun Lodge [very nice restaurant] Barnacle Bistro [decent food and a good option if you want to go into town]

DAY 2:

Drive to Yachats – about 3hrs without stops, but expect to take a whole day since there are plenty of worthwhile stops along the way.

Visit Cape Blanco Lighthouse in Port Orford, considered the westernmost point in Oregon. 

Continue on towards Bandon and stop at the Face Rock Scenic Viewpoint that affords some beautiful views of the beaches on either side of the viewpoint and its collection of isolated rock towers in a variety of shapes and forms, spread along the beach and shore. If you have the time take a walk on the beach to get a different vantage point of the rock formations and to see some caves and tidepools in the area. 

Another viewpoint just up north, a few minutes away, is Coquille Point. Another beautiful view of the beach and more rock formations that are so prevalent on the Oregon Coast. 

From there the next stop is the Coquille Lighthouse. It’s not a very big lighthouse but very quaint with tall grasses surrounding it. Make sure to walk pass the lighthouse towards the beach and onto the pier that separates the Coquille River from the Pacific Ocean. You’ll get some nice views of the lighthouse and surrounding area. 

Head in the direction of Coos Bay and explore the Cape Arago State Park. There are some nice coves and lovely trails along the coast. 

Continue on to Florence. One of the few charming towns along the Southern/Central Oregon Coast. Although a bit touristy, its historic downtown area is charming. 

Haceta Head Lighthouse was our next stop. It is supposedly the brightest light on the Oregon coast and the most photographed. A short but steep trail takes you to the base of the lighthouse.  Make the effort uphill, it’s beautiful.

Onwards to Yachats through the Cape Perpetua Scenic Area. 

STAY Overleaf Lodge & Spa [the oceanfront setting of the hotel is great, but the hotel itself is pretty much a Holiday Inn with no sense of place or style. Make sure to walk north along the trail that runs right in front of the hotel and explore all the coves and tide pools along the way]

EAT Yachats Brewing [popular casual eatery with craft beers] Ona Restaurant [more upscale restaurant] Luna Sea Fish House [good seafood shack]

DAY 3:

Our destination today is Arch Cape, another 3hrs drive with no stops. Plan again for a whole day of driving and stopping. 

Our first stop was going to be the Yaquina Head Lighthouse – Oregon’s tallest lighthouse and still operating – but given the fact that it was Labor Day holiday and jammed packed with people with the parking lot absolutely full, we continued on without seeing the lighthouse. 

Another worthwhile quick stop is at the Rocky Creek State Scenic Viewpoint. After you park, walk north on a pathway that will take you to a viewpoint of Whale Cove. 

Jacobsen Salt Co on Netarts Bay was a stop on our list but was closed due to Covid. It offers tastings of the famous Oregon salt.

Another stop on the way was Kelly’s Brighton Marina in Rockaway Beach for fresh seafood. Again, since it was the Labor Day holiday, the places was mobbed with people and we kept on driving without lunch!

STAY Ocean Point Inn [a charming 3-room inn right on the beach with a wonderful breakfast included every morning. Highly recommend a few nights here]

EAT There are no restaurants in Arch Cape, which is actually a blessing since it maintains the beach more protected and less touristy. Drive 15 minutes north to Cannon Beach, a charming town, with a New England feel to it, full of restaurants and shops. Ecola Seafoods Restaurant & Market [very laid-back diner serving fresh wild-caught specialties] Pelican Brewing [hip brewpub serving gourmet bar food]

DAY 4:

We spent the day at Arch Cape. A walk along the beach, in particular in low tide around the Southern tip is a must. Beautiful rock formations, with some fully covered in mussels & incredible tidepools full of wildlife. Ecola State Park in Cannon Beach is also a must. It is perched dramatically on the edge of Tillamook Head with old growth rainforest and famous views, overlooking numerous rock formations. There are plenty of hiking trails and you can’t go wrong with any of them. 

DAY 5:

Drive about 2hrs to Astoria which has gone from a trading post to lumber town to cannery center to, most recently, a refuge for Northwest’s creative class escaping pricier zip codes in Seattle and Portland. 

STAY Cannery Pier Hotel [a cannery turned boutique hotel that sits on pilings over the Columbia river almost under the Astoria-Megler Bridge – a 4.1-mile long steel cantilever bridge that connects Oregon to Washington. Great photo opportunities from the hotel and maybe even from your room if it’s facing the bridge]

EAT Fort George Brewery & Public House [vibrant brewpub is a very spacious warehouse] Josephson’s Smokehouse [seafood shop under Highway 101 that’s been smoking and selling fish for the last 96 years]

TO DO Cathedral Tree & Astoria Column Hike [a short hiking trail through Astoria's hillside urban forest that departs from Irving Street at about 29th Street, and goes for about a 1/2 mile to the giant Sitka spruce known as the 'Cathedral Tree'. From there continue through a well preserved coastal forest to the top of Coxcomb Hill, where the Astoria Column is located, and  enjoy the 360 degree panoramic views of the area] River Walk & Downtown [walk along the river and train tracks to observe the transformation of this town where old cannery warehouses are being converted to breweries, bars and restaurants, shops, etc. Also explore the historic downtown area] 

DAYS 6 & 7:

Drive about 4hrs to Port Towsend and take a ferry to Whidbey Island. I highly recommend making ferry reservations ahead of time (this is a rule for all ferries in the area). And allow some time to visit the well preserved & charming historic downtown area in Port Towsend and maybe grab some lunch before hopping on the ferry. 

Whidbey is a fairly narrow but very long, making it the largest island in Washington.

STAY Captain Whidbey [an updated hip & charming historic inn located on the shores of Penn Cove not far from Coupeville] Inn at Langley [most upscale lodging option on the island]

EAT Captain Whidbey [the inn has a lovely restaurant. We were there during Covid and a reduced menu was being served on the deck outside. It was a great setting & pretty good food] Oystercatcher [a lovely little restaurant in Coupeville serving deliciously fresh seafood] Inn at Langley [renowned restaurant offering a very refined multicourse dinner] Whidbey Pies Cafe [nestled in a beautiful red farm building, this bakery specializes in a wide variety of pies]

TO DO Hike the Lighthouse Point & Lottie Point via Rosario Trailhead [a 4.7 mile loop along rugged cliffs with beautiful views of the water and the high bridge across the famous Deception Pass. Not to be missed!] Ebey’s Landing [a 554-acre reserve offering scenic coastal trails, with sweeping views of the Olympic Peninsula] Langley [charming town on the south end of the island worth exploring]

DAY 8:

Drive about 2hrs north to Gooseberry Point, just west of Bellingham, to take a ferry to Lummi Island. It’s a tiny island and home to a unique dining destination called the Willows Inn. Not only you can have a fabulous dinner at this very unassuming but super charming inn, you can also spend the night there. Advanced reservations are a must. You can also rent a house on the island and enjoy dinner at the Inn, but if you are not their guest, you will miss an incredible breakfast. Not to be a show-off, but I have eaten at some very revered restaurants around the world, and this is up there with my favorites. 

DAY 9:

If you look at the map, Lummi Island is quite close to Orcas Island, one of the San Juan Islands, but no ferries connect them. So we had to drive back toward Whidbey Island and go to Anacortes where we took the ferry to Orcas. This is a horseshoe-shaped island with the main town of Eastsound placed in the middle overlooking a fjord.

Due to the fires ravaging Oregon and Washington, our visit to the San Juan Islands in the next few days was covered in smoke with very little visibility. Hence the very limited photography of the islands.

STAY Overlook Inn [old family-run inn in Eastsound with waterfront views. The Water’s Edge Rooms are in a new, modern building right on the water’s edge of Fishing Bay, as the name states]

EAT Hogstone’s Wood Oven [very relaxed farmer-owned restaurant offering delicious fresh salads/vegetables, seafood, as well as their specialty pizzas] Aelder [same owner as Hogstone if you want a fine dining experience] The Barnacle [charming bar with craft cocktails & boards of charcuterie & cheese]

TO DO Moran State Park [hike to Mount Constitution - over 2000 feet of elevation gain - the highest point in the San Juan Islands with the best panoramic view from the top of the watchtower. If you’re not up for a challenge, you can hike The Little Summit Trail instead or just drive all the way to the top and then walk the short distance to the watchtower] Kayaking [Shearwater Kayak Tours is the place to get a guided tour] Orcas Island Winery [boutique family-run vineyard & winery. The tasting room & shop are inside a nice modern farmhouse with picnic tables on the surrounding grounds]

DAY 10:

Take a ferry to San Juan, that has the largest population in the archipelago. But it’s main town Friday Harbor, is still a relatively sleepy town, easily walkable and with no chains which maintains its character. On the opposite side of the island is Roche Harbor, a beautiful historic seaside resort with a small village feel.

STAY Friday Harbor House [boutique hotel set atop a bluff with beautiful views over the harbor] Roche Harbor [offers a wide variety of lodging options: luxurious modern homes, a historic hotel and quaint cottages] Saltwater Farm [only five guest houses beautifully designed with a blend of modern & rustic. Very private & tucked away. Wish we could have stayed here, but they host a lot of weddings & events, and the guesthouses were not available during our stay]

EAT Duck Soup [hidden in a forested plot away from Friday Harbor, this very charming restaurant serves dishes with foraged ingredients from the island] Friday Harbor House [good option for dinner or drinks, and outside seating is the way to go. My favorite thing was to watch the ferries come and go from this spot] The Market Chef [a gourmet deli that is perfect for lunch or to get food for a picnic] Bakery San Juan [artisan breads, gourmet pizzas and lovely pastries]

TO DO Rent a Bike [cycling around the island is safe & a great way to explore. We had to cancel our rental because of the air quality and drove around instead. But we could tell that cycling would have been a wonderful way to see the island!] San Juan Island Distillery and Westcott Bay Cider [open only on Saturdays, these destinations have to be seeked out since they are both tucked away among apple orchards. San Juan Island Distillery makes different gins, a variety of liqueurs and an apple brandy. Westcott Bay Cider makes traditional hard ciders from their Washington cider apple varieties grown in their orchard on the island. Like Orcas Island, San Juan Island has a long history of being a major fruit producer for Puget Sound] Pelindaba Lavender Farm [I had never been to a lavender farm and what a treat to stroll among fields of lavender. Incredibly beautiful!] San Juan Vineyard [a quaint place to taste some locally produced wines]

DAY 11

We made our way to Seattle after taking the ferry to Anacortes and driving for a couple of hours. We cut short our stay in Seattle due to the horrible air quality so I will just skip it. All we did was eat dinner, sleep and take off the next morning.

DAY 12

Our next destination was McMinniville in the Willamette Valley, about 45 minutes south of Portland. It is a wine producing area best known for its excellent Pinot Noirs. Again due to the terrible air quality, we were mostly inside and did not explore much of the area. We also cut our stay short to only one night.

STAY Atticus Hotel [a high-end boutique hotel in the historic downtown of McMinniville, centrally located in the Oregon Wine Country]

EAT Red Hills Kitchen [inside the Atticus Hotel, this is a lovely options for dinner]

TO DO Walk around the Historic Downtown; Granary District [collection of warehouses and silos just outside downtown that have been converted into multiple wineries. It’s a nod to McMinniville’s rich agricultural history. There is also a marketplace where you can grab coffee, a beer or browse fresh produce]

DAY 13

We continued on south to Ashland. This stop was also shortened since at this point we just wanted to get home where the air had improved and was much better than in the Pacific Northwest. The suggestions below are extremely limited, and there’s a lot more to experience in town.

STAY The Peerless Hotel [historic hotel with individually decorated rooms full of antiques. Somewhat charming but cluttered with knick-knacks. Makes me want to run, fast! But my husband likes it]

EAT Alchemy [this place came highly recommended but our reservation was cancelled last-minute since most of their staff had been affected by the fires]

DAY 14

Drive about 6hrs straight back to San Francisco, where we can breathe again!

Travel without the Journey - 2020

This website has never been as cherished as this year of Covid and very limited travels. All my international trips planned for this year were cancelled (Africa & Norway), so it was a time to revisit travels of the past.

This is something that I read and really resonated with me:

“Now is a time to stay at home.
A time to reflect on travels of the past, 
A time to dream of travels to come. 
A time to travel without the journey”

All my trips have changed me for the better, enriched my life and made me reconnect with nature and myself! And re-reading all my posts reminded me of all that.

Hopefully to more adventures in 2021!

Japan - 2019

I had been to Kyoto in 2012, so was really looking forward to going back and seeing more of this wonderful country. And I was not disappointed. This time my partner in crime was my sister Gabi celebrating her 40th birthday. 

What is so fascinating about Japan is the juxtaposition of the past/ritual/decorum and innovation. They look to the future while respecting & honoring the past. Everything was so functional, so funny and so foreign!

Here’s a quick list of great memories & amazing facts before I describe our itinerary, stop-by-stop:

1.   It’s almost impossible to find a trash bin on the streets or public spaces like a train station for example, yet, everywhere is so clean. You will never find trash on the ground. 

2.   The famous Japanese toilets are as entertaining as ever. They are warm, spray front and rear and play music. In particular ocean sounds in public toilets!

3.   Japanese don’t use napkins, so you will never be given a napkin at a restaurant. Only a wet towel in the beginning of your meal.

4.   The Japanese people still don’t speak a lot of English and the translations on signs are beyond hilarious. Here’s one in a department store bathroom: “Excrement, vomit, water, anything other than toilet paper, do not shed”. And the bottle of room spray in my hotel room: “It is a deodorant spray of an effective professional specification to the anxious smell”. It cracked me up :-)

5.   They love packaging. Everything is beautifully packaged, even the single banana you will buy at a 7Eleven. It’s a culture where gifting is very important and they place a lot of emphasis on presentation. Just not sure what they do with all the trash from this in this day and age, where we should be reducing the use of plastic!

6.   They walk so fast! I’m a fast walker but good luck trying try to keep up with them. A gentleman at Tokyo station noticed Gabi and I trying to figure out where to go to get our train and without barely speaking English, he went out of his way for at least 5 minutes, to bring us to the exact platform we had to be at. What a kind gesture! And he walked fast in that station…..Gabi and I felt we had to speed-walk rolling our suitcases to follow him! He was not the first or last person to assist us. We saw a pair dressed with volunteer t-shirts & hats holding a folder packed with maps. As we asked for directions, they promptly walked us to where we wanted to go about 10mins away.

7.   You better like fish and rice, because man oh man, you will eat a LOT of that. Gabi had PTSD – post traumatic sushi disorder – by the end of our trip :-)

8.   Men love wearing purses. And I do mean purses! And these are businessmen wearing suits. 

9.   There’s no traffic anywhere. Even at rush hour. Streets might have a lot of cars, but they move along and you will never hear honking. It’s so civilized!

10. Kids, as young as 6 years old, go to school on their own. You will recognize them with their adorable uniforms with white hats and boxy leather backpacks – red for girls and black for boys – walking around train stations & sidewalks. It’s adorable! Japan is considered very safe even in big cities such as Tokyo. 

11. You will see shrines & temples absolutely everywhere! Shrines are Shinto and temples Buddhist. The best way to tell the difference is that shrines usually have a large red gate (torii) at the entrance, guarded by a fox, dog or another animal, and a water basin where visitors wash their hands and mouth before entering. Temples tend to be a more reserved in color on the outside and the interior is often filled with ornate gold statues dedicated to the Buddha. There is usually a large incense burner out front for purification. At temples people pray silently but at shrines they must ring a bell and clap their hands to awaken the gods.

Both belief systems coexist beautifully in Japan and most Japanese practice both. There’s a saying that “Japanese are born Shinto (living spirits take care of one’s life) and die Buddhist (cycle of death and rebirth until the individual achieves enlightment – takes care of the afterlife)”. You see, it’s pretty convenient to be born Shinto but die Buddhist :-)

TOKYO

Tokyo is fantastic! While it is a massive city, it is so clean, relatively quiet, extremely civilized and once in a residential neighborhood, you might as well be in a small town. I had never been to a metropolis that while so stimulating, was not overwhelming; while packed with people, felt tranquil.

TO DO Yoyogi-koen Park & Meiji-jingu Shrine [start your day walking around this beautiful & lively park and make a stop at the famous Meiji Shrine next door] Omotesando Boulevard [from the park, wander down Omotesando, a wide, tree-lined boulevard with high-end fashion stores on both sides, great modern architecture, and fun for people watching. Don’t miss the charming side streets, full of lovely boutiques and cafes] Aoyama [look for Blue Bottle Coffee Shop, a legendary California coffee brand, in one of the back streets, and you will find a very modern space with a Japanese vibe and lines out the door. Don’t miss the really charming café next door and behind it a food court made of containers, quite hip and young. Also the Nezu Museum set in a beautiful garden with a glass box café is nearby] Shibuya [which isn't that special a part of the city – a little seedy - but it is worth seeing the crosswalks in front of the Shibuya station and the mass of humanity that politely crosses the enormous intersection with extreme civility. If you go to the rooftop of the Magnet building, you will get a bird’s eye view of the crosswalk. Also make sure to check out this store that will give you a glimpse into the young adult fashion trends in Japan. Take the stairs instead of the elevator so you can see all the mural art] Ginza [shopping district that showcases various types of modern architecture, fun shops and bars, and overall exciting vibe] Yayoi Kusama Museum [while I really admire her work, the museum was a bit disappointing; really small, not much to see and lacking on the dots, which is what Yayoi’s work is mostly famous for. I would skip it but thought I would mention so you spend your time elsewhere] Mori Digital Art Museum [I wish we had gone to this museum instead!! Book tickets ahead of time] WALK [if you are able walk everywhere. My sister and I walked 6-8hrs a day and that’s how you really get to see and experience a city]

STAY Trunk Hotel [great boutique hotel where I would have liked to stay but was sold out] Granbell Asakusa [where we actually stayed; nothing super special, but nice enough, great location and price]

EAT Tokyu Foodshow [located in the basement of the Tokyu Department Store next to the east exit of Shibuya Station, this food hall is amazing with a great selection of fresh fish, meat, produce and prepared foods of all kinds - tonkatsu, sushi, grilled chicken, tofu products, pickles, deli salads, and all kinds of bento boxes. Do not miss it!] Yurakucho District [lively restaurant district built up under the brick arches beneath the elevated train tracks  - Gado-shita. It occupies all of the free space under nearly 700 meters of track on both sides of Yurakucho Station. Many of the eateries under the train tracks are authentic izakaya – Japanese tapas - and yakitori – grilled chicken skewers - joints] Bird Land [is a one-Michelin starred yakitori place located in the basement of the Ginza subway station in Tokyo. It sits across the corridor from its more famous neighbor, Sukiyabashi Jiro, which I will talk about next. Bird Land is loud, smoky, and crowded. Fun & good food] Sukiyabashi Jiro [made famous by the Netflix documentary “Jiro Dreams of Sushi”, this 3-star Michelin restaurant was a major disappointment. Making reservations was not easy, and the whole meal was 20-minutes long, without exaggeration. We had to eat pretty much one nigiri per minute, and while it sounds like plenty of time, try doing it!! You are supposed to eat each nigiri within a minute of it being placed on your plate, otherwise the rice starts to come apart due to the sauce that is slightly brushed over the fish. We were out of the restaurant at 5.50pm, each person $400 poorer (no alcohol included) and there was not even a line of people waiting. Outrageous. I felt robbed!] Kaiseki Gi [while a bit out of the way, this restaurant specializes in soba noodles and was quite a nice meal. Very friendly staff] Pizza StudioTamaki [while it sounds crazy to look for pizza while in Japan, this place is apparently not to be missed. While we did not make it there, some people claim that the pizza here is better than in Italy!]

TOURS Food Tour: Culinary Backstreets - Tokyo Time Machine:Handmade To High Tech [once again Culinary Backstreets did not disappoint with its food tour. We started our tour at a depachika (department store food hall) in Shibuya, the epicenter of trendy Japan. We tasted traditional sushi, pickles, cakes, gyoza, etc. From there we boarded a train to Kichijoji, an outlying city only 15 minutes away that has successfully maintained its strong local identity. We got to sample fugu (the famous blow-fish that is extremely poisonous and only very well trained chefs can serve it), yakitori (mostly chicken skewers – every part you can imagine of a chicken is on a skewer!), wagyu beef balls, and traditional rice crackers at Hanami Senbei, a small factory at the back with a store upfront, where rice crackers are still produced in the traditional way by hand. The shop is run by mother and daughter and it was the highlight of our tour! Our time in Kichijoji ended at one of the quickly disappearing traditional yokocho drinking alleys to sample sake or beer at an izakaya, or Japanese gastropup] Tsukiji Market [we took a tour of what is left of the famous fish market in Tokyo. The original wholesale market, famous for the tuna auctions, has been moved to a new location and what is left is the outer market with wonderful stalls selling fresh seafood, spices, traditional snacks, knives, sake, teas, etc. It gives you a great insight into Japanese culture. There is a small part of the wholesale business remaining that serves the many local restaurants in the area, including very high end ones in Ginza. We took this tour with Japan Wonder Travel and while it is not highly recommended, it was a good enough 3-hr tour. We got to sample very fresh tuna sashimi, omelet - that is too sweet for me in Japan, sake and ended with lunch at a sushi restaurant nearby]

HAKONE

Our next stop was Hakone which is a popular destination among Japanese and international tourists. It is famous for it’s hot springs, natural beauty and the views of Mount Fuji. 

It was a quick stop for us so we only had time to enjoy our lovely hotel Gora Kadan and the nearby Open Air Museum, with large-scale sculptures sprinkled along beautiful gardens.  We had our meals at the hotel, served in our Japanese style room by Mayumi, who was assigned to tend to all our needs. She definitely spoiled us!

KYOTO

While what I will recommend is not necessarily all we did, but this is how I would do it now, knowing how the amount of tourists in Kyoto has substantially increased with most temples mobbed with people. I think as travelers we are now experiencing over tourism in most places, and one has to get creative to avoid getting trapped with a million other people that honestly are not all that well behaved and considerate. Maybe visit a temple or two but spend most of your time walking around neighborhoods, including residential ones away from the touristic areas. Another idea is to get up really early and walk around – streets, parks, etc….while the city is still pretty quiet.  

TO DO 

Itinerary 1: Kiyomizu-dera Temple - wake up really early – 5am - and make your way to the Kiyomizu-dera temple up the hill from the Hashiyama district. It opens at 6am and you will have the place to yourself. Trust me, it’s well worth the early morning rise. 

After exploring Kiyomizu-dera, walk down Matsubara-dori Street (lined with shops hopefully still closed – you are not missing anything super special) to reach the lovely preserved district of Sannen-zaka Hill. Continue down the street to where it flattens out and then go a bit further and take a right down into Ninnen-zaka, another lovely preserved district. You will come to a larger cross street with cars. Go left down the hill then quickly turn right into Nene-no-Michi, which is mostly free from cars. Follow this north, with one quick right-left jog to reach Maruyama-koen Park.

Exit the north side of Maruyama-koen and follow the street north to the impressive main gate of Chion-in Temple. Climb the steep steps and enter the wide courtyard of Chion-in. Return down the steps and continue north. You’ll soon pass the enormous camphor trees in front of Shoren-in Temple. Enter the temple and enjoy a nice cup of green tea and a sweet while looking out over the garden. Continue on to Konchinand then head to a major temple compound called Nanzenji. Climb the big wooden gate there. Then walk on to Eikando, Honenin, ending at Ginkakuji (Silver Pavilion). After Eikando make sure to take the Philosopher’s Path - a pleasant stone path that follows a canal which is lined by hundreds of cherry trees - to Ginkakuji. You also don’t have to enter all or any of these temples. This is a lovely walk!

Itinerary 2: Fushimi-Inari Shrine is famous for its thousands of vermillon torii gates that you can hike through. Make sure to go first thing in the morning – this is key for you to have a good experience. By the time you are done with the hike and heading back you will see why! Then head to the Nishiki Market to experience its culinary abundance. Fish, squid, eels, vegetables, tea, pickles, seaweed, and sweets are just some of the items you will find on this market. The surrounding streets are fun and full of little cafes & shops worth exploring. Walk around and get lost!

Itinerary 3: Early Bird Arashiyama Bamboo Forest Tour with Kyoto Bike Tour. This tour is a great way to see the Arashiyama District at the foothills of the mountains outside the city center, visit the Bamboo Forest before it gets overtaken by tourists and also to visit the Tenryuji Temple in that area.

Some other suggestions:

Kenninji Temple– while not on the list of famous temples, this is a very charming temple in Higashiyama, without the crowds. Worth a stop!

Pontocho Alley- a very narrow street parallel to the Kamogawa river that’s full of bars and restaurants. 

EAT Soba Noodles at Honke Owariya [over 500-year old restaurant in a charming old wood building is not to be missed. Order the cold soba noodles that comes in a tower of stacked bowls with a variety of trimmings] Tempura at Yasaka Endo [even though a meal of fried food is not normally what I go for, the fresh vegetables and seafood lightly fried and served here are not heavy or greasy, and a real treat. Tempura is the name for dishes that have been dipped in a mixture of cold water, flour and egg then fried in oil. It is most commonly eaten with 'ten-tsuyu' - a dipping sauce made from dashi, soy sauce, and mirin (sweet rice wine). It's also quite common to add grated ginger or grated Japanese daikon radish to ten-tsuyu. Finally tempura is best eaten with just a sprinkling of salt. The matcha or yuzu citrus peel salts are my favorite] Ramen at Kyoto Ramen Koji (Ramen St) at Kyoto Station [it’s an entire floor  - if I remember correctly the 10th floor - full of ramen shops with each one serving their own specialty of ramen] Tofu at Okutan Nanzenji, Ukutan Kiyomizu or Nanzenji Junsei [even if you are not a tofu fan, it’s worth trying one of these restaurants. The variety of tofu is unlike anywhere else] Shojin Ryori at Shigetsu in Arashiyama’s Tenryuji Temple [shojin ryori. is best explained as Zen temple vegetarian cuisine. Buddhist belief forbids the killing of animals for human consumption, so shojin ryori is entirely plant-based, revolving around soybean based foods, fresh vegetables, seeds and nuts, and wild mountain plants.  Seasonings tend to be simple and restrained, so the flavor of the raw ingredients shines through. It’s a very nice experience!] Kaiseki Meal at Yuzuya Ryokan [kaiseki is a multi-course parade of small very seasonal dishes served with sake. A must-experience in my opinion. You will find many restaurants serving kaiseki meals throughout Japan, but kaiseki is typical from Kyoto so I would experience it there] Sushi at AWOMB [while I did not go to this restaurant, I have heard great things about. What is unique about this place is that you get to make hand-rolled sushi yourself using a variety of colorful & local ingredients. Very fun!] Matcha ice cream at Kinakoya [I am a huge fan of matcha. This is the style of tea where one imbibes the entire leaf. You will see matcha flavored everything, everywhere in Kyoto. But beware, there is okay quality matcha and there is great quality matcha. I liked the matcha ice cream at Kinakoya because it is soy based with good quality matcha. If you want to buy some matcha tea, Ippodo is a reputable tea company] Isetan Food Hall at Kyoto Station [foodies heaven!!! I will leave it at that. Go!] Vegetables at ISOYA [this izakaya is modern, hip and serves an abundant harvest of vegetables that you choose from]

STAY Granbell Hotel [very nice boutique hotel at a great location in the Gion district]

 

NAOSHIMA ISLAND

Naoshima is a small and formerly remote island that is now becoming one of the world’s most noteworthy art destinations. While my sister and I were not blown away by it, there are some gems worth seeing on the island. Note that it is a bit of a trek to get there - a couple of trains & a ferry - that will take good part of a day. Be mindful that every museum on the island closes on the same day – Mondays, with the exception of the Benessee House Museum. So if you happen to have only 2 days on the island and one happens to be a Monday – our case – you’re out of luck!

TO SEE The Chichu Art Museum [designed by the famous Japanese architect Tadao Ando, this museum is unusual in that it is located almost completely underground yet uses natural light to illuminate the artwork. The building itself is part of the art show in my view. No pictures are allowed inside or outside, and at first I was bummed out, but came to really appreciate it. People were present with the artwork versus trying to get the best shots. Book your tickets ahead of time and I suggest for the 10am time slot when the museum opens, to avoid the sure to arrive crowds. The other thing to keep in mind is that for viewing some of the artwork you will need to take off your shoes] The Benesse House [this complex includes an art museum, outdoor art displays, restaurants, shops, and accommodations. Its four buildings are known as the Museum, the Oval, the Park, and the Beach and were all also designed by Tadao Ando. It is here that the famous Yellow Pumpkin by Yayoi Kusama is exhibited. BTW, there is another pumpkin – the Red Pumpkin by Yayoi Kusama right next to the ferry terminal at Miyanoura Port that is a lot more interactive since you can get inside it. The Benesse House Museum has a great combination of photographs, paintings and sculptures] The Art House Project in Honmura [abandoned houses, workshops, temples, and shrines were transformed into modern structural works of art and venues for Japanese artists. The Ando Museum is part of this complex. Make sure to book tickets ahead of time as well] The Lee Ufan Museum [another Ando-designed semi-underground structure that features the work of the Korean artist Lee Ufan who lives and teaches in Japan] Teshima [day-trip - ferry to the neighboring island of Teshima. It is a quiet, pretty island with the Teshima Art Museum, a stunning architectural work shaped like water droplet]

STAY The Benesse House [as described above, the Benesse House is a complex of buildings with two very good restaurants, a great location on the island, walkable to the outdoor exhibits and the Benesse Museum. Not to mention that you will be steps away from the famous Yellow Pumpkin and can have it all to yourself in the early morning before the crowds arrive. Benesse House also offers a free shuttle for its guests to all the major sites/museums on the island. Another great way to get around the island is to rent a bike. But beware that there are some hills]

KUMANO KODO

Kumano Kodo Trail is a UNESCO World Heritage spiritual pilgrimage site.The Nakahechi (or Imperial) route is the central trail and most accessible. We booked a 5-day self-guided tour with Oku Japan, and they reserved the guesthouses along the way for us to spend the night, and also transported our luggage, so all we had to carry was a daypack. It is a beautiful hike, mostly in wooded forest settings, with a LOT of climbing, so be prepared for that. 

OSAKA

Osaka is arguably the food and drink capital of Japan. Many of the food places in Osaka are small, and seat no more than a handful of people and they are everywhere – on alleyways, basements, several stories up on non-descript high-rise buildings. It’s actually overwhelming and I felt a bit paralyzed not knowing where to go!! 

EAT Pie Shop [café with tasty drinks like lattes and iced matcha and one type of food only - American-style pies. There are a variety of flavors and they are quite good. After being in Japan for over 2 weeks only eating Japanese food, a slice of pie hit the spot] Wad Omotenashi Café [this bright café feels like a Japanese oasis. Not the place to come for a quick coffee, but instead to experience traditional Japanese teas. The matcha is prepared in the same style as in a tea ceremony and small food dishes can accompany your tea] Department Stores [we mostly ate at department stores that never stopped to amaze me with the outstanding selection of ready-to-eat meals, fruits, sweets, etc. Daimaru – basement food hall at the Shinshibashi store or at Umeda at Osaka Station; Hanshin at Umeda was also great] Kitamura [for sukiyaki – meat alongside vegetables which is slowly cooked at the table in an iron pot. Make reservations ahead of time] Robatayaki Rikimaruchaya [nice little izakaya restaurant] Eat Your Way through Osaka Food Tour [this food tour hosted by Chie at Airbnb Experiences, took us to all the best places, according to Chie, to try Osaka staples such as Takoyaki, also known by Westerners as “octopus balls” and Okonomiyaki which is a pancake with a variety of ingredients such as eggs, shredded cabbage, diced meat and/or seafood and diced onion. The mixture is grilled on both sides then topped sauce, seaweed flakes, bonito flakes and Japanese mayonnaise. We also had great sushi in a tiny place, and I mean tiny! Pretty much stand only space] 

STAY Moxy Osaka Honmachi [relatively well located, with modern & comfortable rooms. Caters to a young, hip crowd. Not my favorite scene, but the price is great for what you get]

Ireland - 2018

If you only have a week to spare, this is a nice itinerary that will allow you to get a taste for the country. Ireland is infamous for its rainy & cold weather, but it did not take away from the country’s beauty and charm. The Irish people could not be more lovely; fun & funny; witty & great storytellers. I shared this trip with my husband Michael, my lovely in-laws Harry & Deb and the up-for-anything couple Dave & Diana. Some of the pictures below are credited to them as well.

DAY 1

Arrive in Dublin 

Walk around the downtown Dublin area to get a sense for the city - Christchurch Cathedral, Dublin Castle, Temple Bar, The Ha'Penny Bridge, Henry Street & Moore Street, Statues of O' Connell Street, The River Liffey, Trinity College, Merrion Square, St. Stephen's Green, The Grafton Street area. You can also hire a guide for a few hours and that’s what we did (airbnb Experiences or ToursbyLocals.com)

EAT Forest Avenue (amazing pre-fix dinner, reasonably priced)

STAY Fantastic airbnb in the Ballsbridge neighborhood. The hostess, Tess, is one of the best out there! https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/15575583.

DAY 2

All-day tour of Dublin’s north surroundings [ToursByLocals.com; Guide: Brian O., a really fun & knowledgeable guide] Places to visit [the fishing village of Howth, The Malahide Castle and Gardens; lunch at the Anglers Rest Pub and panoramic views of Dublin along the way]

EAT The original plan was to eat dinner at Cavistons, a seafood institution in Dublin, but we ended up staying at our fabulous airbnb and ordering pizzaJ

DAY 3

All-day tour of Dublin’s south surroundings [1. drive through the Wicklow Mountains which offer stunning views of valleys and lakes; 2. stop at the Glendalough Monastic city; 3. visit The Avoca Hand Weaver's which is Ireland's oldest hand weaver's dating back to 1723. You will see Avoca stores around Ireland but this is where it all started. If you can get a tour of the factory it’s a nice thing to do. The store sells beautiful wool apparel and gourmet goodies; 4. finish the day at the Powerscourt House and Gardens]. We had a guide who took us on this tour, but I would not recommend him. However you can find a guide at ToursByLocals.com, if you rather not do this on your own.

EAT Winding Stair [charming & popular restaurant along the river in downtown Dublin]

DAY 4

Pick up a rental car and drive west towards Galway/Connemara. The first & only stop is the Kylemore Abbey- about 4.5hrs away. Visit the Abbey, the very small and quaint Gothic Church & the Victorian Walled Gardens. From there drive to Ballynahinch Castle – about 30mins away - the lodging for the next 2 nights.

STAY Ballynahinch Castle [wonderful old castle adapted into a hotel and set in a 700 acre estate of beautiful woodlands, rivers and walks right in the heart of Connemara]

EAT Dinner at Owenmore Restaurant at the hotel. 

DAY 5

AM: Go on a beautiful drive from Ballynahinch to Clifden [vibrant little market town with a U-shaped main street full of cafes, galleries & pubs]; then to the Sky Road [one of the most picturesque areas in the Connemara region. This is a circular route that will separate into the lower and upperroads. The lower road goes downhill towards the sea and will give you a very close up view of the landscape & coast, but the upper road is more popular because of the views it offers over the entire area. You can easily do both roads but if you have to pick one I would recommend the lower road]. The next stop is Mannin Bay [beautiful bay with white sandy beaches and cows grazing right along the dunes] and then the one after is Dog's Bay followed by Gurteen [both gorgeous beaches and if it’s not too windy make sure to walk along the beach and its surroundings]. Finally you will get to Roundstone, the last stop of the day [a small and one of the oldest fishing villages on the west coast of Ireland. Lunch at O'Dowds, a typical pub & a Connemara institution is a must] 

PM: relax and walk around the castle’s estate

EAT Dinner at the Fishermen’s Pub at the hotel 

DAY 6

The original plan was to head to the Aran Islands for the day, but in Ireland plans always revolve around weather conditions, and we were not able to ferry over to the islands. So instead we made our way along the coast to Galway - it’s the longer option than taking the road inland but an enjoyable drive with beautiful views. Galway is Ireland’s alternative city, more bohemian than Dublin and well known for its music scene (primarily Irish music) & theatre festival. The compact city center is the main area for a stroll. 

STAY G Hotel [very colorful and over the top décor in a business style hotel, but a comfortable hotel nonetheless, not too far from the city center] Ard Bia and B [did not stay there but looks like a fun & funky two bedroom annex to the owner’s townhouse]

EAT Ard Bia at Nimmos [small & super quaint restaurant at the waterfront serving healthy dishes. Don’t be dissuaded by the healthy description, the food is delicious] Aniar [Michelin-starred restaurant with a very creative tasting menu] Kai [a cozy place headed by a Kiwi chef offering delicious hearty meals]

DAY 7

Drive The Wild AtlanticWay south to Dunguaire Castle [very popular and picturesque site for photographs]. The next stop will be The Hazel Mountain Chocolate [very charming café, chocolate factory & shop selling local objects and apparel. It’s worth the stop for coffee and cake. Continue on through the Burren region – a very unique limestone landscape - towards Doolin, a small fishing village.The Ivy Cottage is a good lunch spot.  Then continue south to the famous Cliffs of Moher, but don’t stop at themain parking area whereyou’ll see lots of tour buse. Drive for another 10-12 minutes, following signs for an alternate parking lot until you find Liscannor Walk. A small private lot will be on your left side, and you’ll pay just 2 euros to park. It’s a great 30-45minute walk to the cliffs from there along beautiful pastures and stonewalls.  Make sure to not stop where the tower is located, but to continue on to your right following the trail. The views get better!

STAY Gregans Castle Hotel [elegant, yet cozy 18thcentury house surrounded by beautiful gardens – we only spent one night here and wished we had one more]

EAT The restaurant at the hotel offers a very nice tasting menu that changes daily.

DAY 8

Drive to Shannon Airport and depart Ireland.